|One of the Janome Rotary Even feet I used to attach bias binding to top and bottom of the seams.
I wanted a 1/2 inch seam showing so I cut my bias strips 2 inches wide and ran them through a bias tape make by Clover.
|A similiar foot from Nancy's notions|
|The Clover bias tape maker. This one is a 1 inch size which means when you open out the tape it is 1 inch wide before folding and attaching.|
|Here is the jacket front with embroidery and custom darts. Women ask what size to buy and I say at least one size too large as the dart may take up to 3 inches in the side dart. You can see later that my side seams do not match but with binding on one side I think the uneveness works.|
|The jacket back as a dense Kaffe Fassett embroidery design.|
|The cuffs were embroidered in the hoop using a wet and set stabilizer. While it worked great at holding the cuffs without hooping just trying to soak the glue out later was a real trial!|
|Since I have narrow shoulders and have to remove part of the shoulder and back yoke edge I decided to bind that edge with the bias binding and then attach the sleeves by just laying the finished edge over the sleeve seam once it had been removed from the shirt and the armhole edge served to prevent ravelling. The finished edge is pinned in this photo but will be edgestitched later.|
|Since I added darts the pocket had to be loosened and placed back down to cover the tip of the dart.
Later the pocket will also be trimmed with the bias binding and re-attached. To make sure that your shirt will fit after adding the darts, yoiu need to buy at least one size larger and open the side seams to pin out the fabric and try on to make sure the darts are large enough.
|I did this same technique to the side seams as they were opened and serged the same way and reattached by laying the finished bias bound edge over the back side seam.Since adding the dart, the side seams will never match at the hem so I leave them uneven and open a bit as a vent. Having vents in tops lets you sit without always having to release that lower button.|
|The side vent makes a statement.|
|And yes, why not bind the pocket too since it was almost toally removed when I made the dart. The arrow points to the new dart.|